Rio de Janeiro · A Guide for Our Guests

Saturday · 22 August

In Rio on the 22nd, the Saturday before the wedding?

Let us know — we're planning something.

Sleep

Where to Stay

Hotel Janeiro Leblon
Our favourite — and we have a discount for you (see below).
Fasano Ipanema
The classic beachfront address.
Copacabana Palace Copacabana
The grande dame of Rio.
Arpoador Inn Arpoador
Smaller rooms, but the best breakfast — right on the rocks.

Hotel Janeiro · booking code

blameitonrio

Days

Do & See

Climb the Sugarloaf on foot Urca
There's a short scramble, but it's more a staircase than a climb — and it's beautiful. To climb it on foot, call Raoni as your guide: +55 21 99422-5808. Or take the cable car at sunset (touristy but unmissable), then take a ride to Bar Urca once back down.
E-bike to the historic centre
Along the waterfront — the loveliest way to cross the city.
Sail to the Cagarras Islands off Ipanema
A day out under sail, just off Ipanema. To charter a boat, WhatsApp Daniel: +55 11 99194-0821.
Whale watching Jun–Sep
Humpbacks pass Rio on their migration from Antarctica to the warm waters of Bahia to breed — and August is peak season. Said to be incredible (we've never managed to see them — tell us how it was).
Lunch at Ocyá, by boat Ilha Primeira · Barra
An island seafood restaurant on the lagoon in Barra da Tijuca — you arrive by boat, eat what came off the line that morning, and come back with the light going gold. An experience worth the trip.
Sítio Burle Marx Barra de Guaratiba
The gardens and atelier of Brazil's great landscape master — stunning. Visits must be booked ahead at sitio-roberto-burle-marx.reservio.com (guided tours Tue–Sat, 9.30am & 1.30pm). Pair it with a boozy brunch at Bira nearby.
Tijuca Forest Alto da Boa Vista
A walk in the world's largest urban rainforest — a dream. (Skip lunch at Esquilo nearby; pretty setting, forgettable food.)
Santa Teresa
Bohemian hillside of old mansions and ateliers. Travel light and keep your phone tucked away — and it will be beautiful.
Flamengo & Glória by bike
An easy loop — with Labuta Al Mar, Isca and Déjà Vu all in the neighbourhood.

Sand

Beaches

Ipanema beach with the Cagarras islands — The Cagarras, from the sand at Ipanema

Praia do Arpoador
Check out Praia do Diabo just around the rock — it can be surprisingly empty.
Praia do Leme
The hipster end of the sand.
Praia de São Conrado
Go for the beach — and have lunch at the Italian quiosque da Gávea between swims.
Praia da Joatinga Joá
Small and beautiful — it can get full.
Prainha beyond Recreio
The best surf. Wild.

Culture

Art

Museum exhibition — A morning at the museum

The Centro art walk

Paço Imperial → CCBB → MAR & Museu do Amanhã

Start at the Paço Imperial, walk up to the CCBB — where "Vik Muniz: A Olho Nu", the largest retrospective ever staged of his work, runs through 12 October (free, Wed–Mon 9am–8pm, closed Tuesdays; timed tickets at the box office or on the CCBB site) — then finish at MAR and the Museu do Amanhã on Praça Mauá.

Museums

Paço Imperial Centro
The old imperial palace on Praça XV — free contemporary exhibitions in beautiful historic rooms.
CCBB Centro
The grand rotunda, always with a major show — right now the Vik Muniz retrospective (through 12 October, free).
MAR Praça Mauá
Museu de Arte do Rio — the city itself as subject, with a view over the square from the top floor.
MAM Flamengo
Modern art in a modernist landmark by the bay, with Burle Marx gardens.
Casa Roberto Marinho Cosme Velho
A great private collection of Brazilian modernism, in a lovely house and garden. Tue–Sun, noon–6pm.

Contemporary Galleries

A Gentil Carioca Centro
The heart of the Centro scene.
Carpintaria Jardim Botânico
Fortes D'Aloia & Gabriel's Rio space — right by the Jockey Club, an easy pair with lunch at Rubayat.
Athena Botafogo
Sharp young programme.

Beautiful Rooms

Mosteiro de São Bento Centro
A 17th-century Benedictine monastery — plain outside, dripping in gold inside. Sunday mass at 10am comes with Gregorian chant.
Real Gabinete Português de Leitura Centro
One of the most beautiful libraries in the world — floor-to-ceiling shelves under a stained-glass ceiling. Free, Mon–Fri 10am–5pm.
Palácio Capanema Centro
The modernist icon by Lucio Costa, Niemeyer and Le Corbusier, freshly restored. Free guided visits Thu & Fri at 9.30am, 11.30am, 2pm and 3.30pm (in English: Thu 11.30am, Fri 3.30pm) — book at least 24h ahead on the Ministério da Cultura site.

Marcela with a painting — Among the modernists

Tables

Restaurants

Brazilian & Steak

Braseiro da Gávea Gávea
Laid-back, perfect after the beach. Very simple — but everyone goes.
Rubayat Jardim Botânico
Sunday lunch. A little corporate, but very good food — with city views and horses trotting past.
Esplanada Grill Ipanema
Fancy steakhouse.

Seafood & Fish

Ocyá Leblon
The city outpost of the island original — dry-aged fish, very good. (The boat trip to the Barra one is the real program.)
Escama Jardim Botânico
Fish.
Satyricon Ipanema
The best seafood in Rio.
Labuta Mar Flamengo / Glória
A great option by the water.
Isca Flamengo / Glória
Lovely to reach by bike through the neighbourhood.

Italian

Sult Botafogo
New, and very good — Michelin Bib Gourmand.
Grado Jardim Botânico
Italian, elegant.
Flor do Céu above Leblon
Wonderful Italian in a (safe) favela with views over the city. An incredible experience — book ahead.

Japanese & Pan-Asian

Mee Copacabana Palace
Pan-Asian inside the Palace — and fun to have a drink in the hotel's old-school bar before.
Pabu Izakaya Leblon
Japanese — not sushi.
Sushi Leblon Leblon
Always a classic.
Haru Copacabana
The bar upstairs is excellent too — both tend to fill up.
Sushi Vaz Leblon
Just opened. A sort of all-you-can-eat omakase — serious quality, fun and unfussy.

Portuguese

Guimas Gávea
Portuguese bistrot.

Gelato

Momo Gelato Ipanema · Leblon
The carioca gelateria.
Bacio di Latte Ipanema · Leblon
Italian-style, everywhere and excellent.

Contemporary Brazilian

Pope Ipanema
Chill, great vibe — good drinks and food.
Lasai Humaitá
"White noise" perfection — very good without risking anything. Tasting menu; book well ahead.
Lilia Centro
Saturday lunch — then on to Armazém do Senado or Destilaria Maravilha for street samba. Labuta and Braseiro Labuta are good options here too.

Any Hour

Botecos & Street Bars

Street bar lunch — Long lunches, new friends

Caranguejo Copacabana
Street bar with incredible fish — any hour of the day.
Bar Urca Urca
At the far end of Urca. Order at the counter, sit on the seawall facing the bay, watch the city. The walk back is beautiful — pair it with sunset on the Sugarloaf.
Déjà Vu Flamengo / Glória
Near Labuta Al Mar — very charming for drinks.

Mornings

Breakfast & Brunch

Hotel Arp Arpoador
Best view, legendary pancake, great shakshuka — just go. Breakfast until noon.
Talho Capixaba Leblon
The Leblon institution.
Padaria Ipanema Ipanema
Just opened.
Talho Delicatessen Ipanema
Same bakery, Ipanema outpost.

Golden Hour

Drinks & Sunset

Pão de Açúcar Urca
From the top — the best sunset in the city.
Mureta da Urca · Bar Urca Urca
A drink on the seawall as the light goes down over the bay.
Hotel Arp Arpoador
Rooftop over Arpoador.
Cedilha Hotel Janeiro · Leblon
Very good burger and martini.

Late

Bars with a Vibe

Check their Instagram for what's on.

Calma Botafogo
Tiny, great music, great lemonade.
Quartinho Botafogo
Inventive cocktails, artsy room — same block as Calma.
Chanchada Botafogo
Bar food done seriously — the fried pork and croquettes.
Fatchia Glória
Hip pizza-bar with DJs — small, loud, fun.

Nights

Samba

Check dates before you go — the rodas move with the week.

Armazém do Senado roda — Armazém do Senado

Choro in Leme Leme · Thursdays 7pm
Marcela's brother Gabriel plays chorinho at a bar in Leme — Rua Gustavo Sampaio 410. Family-approved.
Cardosão Laranjeiras · Tuesdays
Our Tuesday pick.
Vaca Atolada Lapa
Lapa institution.
Beco do Rato Lapa
Samba nearly every night, Tuesdays included.
Pedra do Sal Saúde
Where samba was born — open-air, in the old port.
Bip Bip Copacabana · Sunday nights
Tiny, traditional, magic.
Armazém do Senado Centro · Saturdays
Street samba after lunch at Lilia.
Destilaria Maravilha Centro · Saturdays
Same programme, same afternoon.

Bring Home

Shopping

Haight Leblon
Women's beachwear.
Parioca Ipanema
Menswear.
Handred Ipanema
Unisex.
Osklen Ipanema
The carioca classic.
Zerezes Ipanema
Sunglasses.
Lenny Niemeyer Leblon
Beachwear.
Reserva Leblon
Menswear.
Cris Barros Leblon
Womenswear.
Adriana Degreas Leblon
Beachwear.
Andrea Marques Leblon
Womenswear.
Havaianas Leblon
Of course.

If You Only Do Four Things

Classic Days

Sunset at Arpoador

Walk out onto the Arpoador rock at golden hour

The whole beach applauds when the sun goes down. Drinks at Hotel Arp after.

The sunset ritual

Sugarloaf at golden hour → down to Bar Urca on the seawall

On foot or by cable car — touristy, and unmissable.

Saturday in the Centro

Lunch at Lilia → street samba at Armazém do Senado or Destilaria Maravilha

The old city at its liveliest.

The waterfront loop

Bike through Flamengo & Glória → Labuta Al Mar, Isca, Déjà Vu

An easy afternoon by the bay.

P.S.

Rio, on Film

The best idea of all: just walk around Rio. Like in most major cities, petty crime can happen — leave the valuables at home, keep your phone out of sight, and you'll be fine. And if a robbery does happen, don't resist.